The myth that cooking equals complicated permeates too many American households today. "Cooking with Les Dames d'Escoffier" quickly dispels that notion.   

Cookbook review: "Cooking with Les Dames d'Escoffier: At Home with the Women Who Shape the Way We Eat and Drink"
By Jennifer Rudolph
Contra Costa Times Contributor
Posted: 06/03/2009 12:00:00 AM PDT

Related
·        Jun 3:
·        Produce Pro: Bloomsdale spinach <http://www.contracostatimes.com/food-and-wine/ci_12462252>  
·        Recipe: Minestrone with Butternut Squash and Kale <http://www.contracostatimes.com/food-and-wine/ci_12462431>  
·        Recipe: Tofu with Spicy Stir-Fry and Asian Greens <http://www.contracostatimes.com/food-and-wine/ci_12462437>  
·        Recipe: Marcella's Grilled Fish Steaks Sicilian Salmoriglio Style <http://www.contracostatimes.com/food-and-wine/ci_12462441>

The following review is by a reader who was given a cookbook from this newspaper. The included recipes were selected and prepared by the reader.

The myth that cooking equals complicated permeates too many American households today. "Cooking with Les Dames d'Escoffier" quickly dispels that notion.

A compilation of recipes by renowned culinary mavens, from Alice Waters to Florence Fabricant, this book reads like a sophisticated version of your grandmother's recipe box: The book is filled with time-honored dishes from around the globe that are accessible as everyday meals, yet refined enough for guests.

While lots of recipes are perfect for any season, I happened to pick up this book earlier this year, when I was in the mood for cold weather dishes.

I decided to make Chicago "Dame" (the title bestowed on every member and honorary member of the group) Abby Mandel's Winter Minestrone with Butternut Squash and Kale. It was very good, although I recommend adding the butternut squash sooner (15-20 minutes before serving) and the canned cannellini beans later (10 minutes before serving). A handful of chopped fresh herbs (I used sage and thyme) and a bit of toasted, ground cumin toward the end also gives the soup more dimension. Dressed with grated Parmesan and a dollop of yogurt and served with warm rustic bread, the soup warms the soul on a rainy day.

Next, I turned to a recipe from New York's Corrine Trang:

Tofu with Spicy Stir-Fry and Asian Greens. I like that the recipe offers a refined variation on tofu stir-fry, my own staple single-girl dish for years. With my tofu-hating fiancé out of town, I craved the old standby. The sauce delivers true umami with the contrasting sweet-tangy, salty-spicy flavor unique to Asian dishes. Trang serves the tofu beside the veggies, drizzling the sauce over the tofu for a sophisticated presentation.
The last recipe I tried was Marcella Hazan's Grilled Fish Steaks Sicilian Salmoriglio Style, a preparation that relies on simple ingredients carefully prepared.

Attention to detail gives the Salmoriglio sauce a light, slightly frothy consistency and wonderful fragrance that works beautifully over grilled tuna steaks. I would proudly serve this quick meal to guests any night of the week.

Considering the credentials of the recipe authors, it's no surprise that each recipe in "Cooking with Les Dames d'Escoffier" emphasizes fresh, quality ingredients combined with careful preparation to bring out true flavor. For the seasoned and green cook alike, I'd say this book is a must-have. I expect you will use the book often, and you'll meet some remarkable women along the way.